Friday 22 August 2014
Belfast day 2
After the usual 9:00 AM breakfast in the hotel, we headed out to the centre of Belfast. Robyn was to go shopping, while I headed for a walking tour.
The tour was centred around Shankill Road and Falls Road. It departed from the site of one of the incidents in the troubles. The police shot 2 people dead while spraying machine gun bullets into a set of terrace houses (flats). Our guide Brian was a former member of the IRA, and former prisoner in Long Kesh jail. He showed us dozens of murals amd memorials, and several sites of conflict. The story of the campaign from 1968 to 2006 took 3 hours to tell. It was of course quite confronting and tragic.
Women and children were involved in this war. Many women were active IRA members, and dozens from Belfast went to (Amagh) jail for long spells. Unfortunately, children and innocent civilians were victims of action by both sides. Memorials to all (Catholic/Nationalist) people injured and killed were erected. These were gardens, murals, and stone plaques. Many people walking the street today are former fighters, and many said hello to Brian, our host. I never had the courage to ask what he was imprisoned for, but he was solidly IRA.
The tour ended in the Milltown cemetery, where The most famous hunger striker, Bobby Sands, and the other nine, are buried. Their actions really did show the Irish felt very deeply about their freedom.
There are many, many Nationalists buried here; with the red hand (of the O'Neills of Ulster - a bit of history there), emblazoned on the gravestones. The whole place was so full of recent, potent history that it was difficult to comprehend that 200,000 (that's right) people are buried here. If I had to try to put this into perspective, I would say that 99% of their stories retell happy, or at least peaceful lives. The struggles to throw off the British yoke go back a long time, but involve relatively few people.
I'm grateful that I was never involved in any conflict like this. Australia seems so peaceful, so laid back now. And it is full of Irish and English people who like each other ! Still, the newer suburbs of Belfast have developed peacefully, and without a religious divide.
Bobby Sands - hunger striker
After the tour, I made my way to the centre of town, and met Robyn in Victoria Square. Nearby is an Irish gift shop - Carrols Irish Gifts. This is one of a chain of stores, which sells everything from thimbles to Titanic T-shirts. We spent 120 pounds there. All sorts of things- for various people (you'll have to wait until Christmas).
Just around the corner is the Crown Bar. This is the most beautiful bar I have ever seen. There are cream coloured ceramic panels under the dark wood bartop. The windows were filled with stained glass, and there were stalls with doors around the outside of the room. Each stall had a table which could seat 6 - 8 people. Needless to say that at 4 o'clock on a Friday afternoon, the place was full. I'd love to go back when it's not so busy.
Outside the Crown Bar - Belfast's most beautiful (the bar - not me).
We also tried Robinson's Bar next door. It was full also, but not as pretty. Across the lane was Brennan's bar - where we found a table and ordered a drink. Yes, there is a bar on every corner in the middle of Belfast; but the Crown Bar is the icon. By the way, they all serve Guinness as fast as they can pur it, but the light style beers (Budweisser, Coors Light, Tennants Ale) are gaining in popularity. Honestly, who goes to an Irish bar to drink American/English pale ale? What is the world coming to? I had a pint of Guinness.
We walked back to our hotel, changed and went to the Metropolitan Kitchen for dinner. This is another restaurant in the university area, close to last night's Sakura restaurant. There are several other cafes/restaurants within a few blocks, and they are all reasonably priced. We didn't notice students eating there though - maybe they come in later. We had the early bird special - which is typically offered from 5:30 to 7:00. One course and a drink for 11 pounds; two courses and a drink for 15 pounds. I had three courses and two drinks. Robyn saved us by having only one course and one drink.
Our hotel is only a five minute walk from this little restaurant area. It took us ten to get back because we kept stopping to look at things. But now we're here and the sun has finally gone. Time to go to bed, because tomorrow we go to Dublin. I want to drive by Newgrange (the passage tomb site), and the Hill of Tara (the ring fort/Royal sites).
Till tomorrow...
Lex and Robyn.
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